Fresh Fig & Vermouth Ice Cream

I love adventurous summer ice cream recipes. “Fresh Fig & Vermouth Ice Cream” is testiment to the idea that you can make this dessert with just about any ingredient. Who would ever think of pairing fresh figs and vermouth in an ice cream custard? Well, this is one of the wonderful recipes which I discovered while browsing through the iconic cooking reference book, Dessert University by Chef Roland Mesnier. The classically trained French chef served in the White House under six presidents. He details how to make many “wow” desserts in his massive educational cookbook volume. The recipe for fig ice cream is a rich egg custard with pureed fresh figs, lemon juice and red vermouth added to the custard. And it is delicious! Let’s make it!

Fresh Figs

Fresh figs have a characteristic flavor and crunch (from the seeds). I had never eaten fresh figs until I moved to Louisiana. It was a surprise to see my mother-in-law picking and eating them right off the tree! For me, figs were certainly an acquired taste. It is one of those fruits which you either like or would rather pass up. They took some getting used to. This ice cream recipe is an easy way to get comfortable with fresh figs as the fruit doesn’t overpower the ice cream.

I have waited all year for fresh figs to show up on neighborhood trees and in grocery stores. “Fresh Fig & Vermouth Ice Cream” is a recipe which I filed away for the summertime. Fresh figs are very perishable and are available for only a few weeks in late summer. Finally! Once you locate fresh figs, get ready to use them — either as sweet, fresh snacks or in recipes.

These are Black Mission figs which I purchased at Whole Foods Grocery store. In addition, I added a few figs which were picked from my mother-in-law’s tree in Houston.

Pureed Fig Sauce

In the Dessert University reference book, Chef Messier simply stemmed and pureed fresh figs which he added to the ice cream custard. I decided to cook the figs down in a little water, sugar and lemon juice and then mash them to make a “Fig Sauce.” I used one cup of the “Fig Sauce” in the ice cream custard recipe and the rest in other recipes.

I have since returned to Whole Foods Grocery Store after this batch of ice cream was made. Alas, no more fresh figs. However, the clerk did locate some dried Black Mission figs. I used these successfully to make my “Fig Sauce.”

About Vermouth

In his recipe intro, Chef Mesnier commented that vermouth and figs make a good combination. So I went with his advice and added vermouth to my ice cream.

What is Vermouth? Vermouth is a fortified white wine with aromatics added. It was first produced in the late 18th century in Italy. In the late 19th century, bartenders began using vermouth is an ingredient in cocktails such as the martini and Manhattan. The aromatics used in vermouth are proprietary, but they can include herbs, bark, seeds, roots, spices, citrus and/or flowers. Sometime sugar or other sweeteners are added to red vermouth. Vermouth can be used in cocktails, mixed drinks and in cooking. Since it is a wine — and not a liqueur — it should be used relatively quickly. The shelf life can be prolonged for several months by storing the botle in the refrigerator.

Adding vermouth to the custard made this ice cream a little tipsy. It also gave the ice cream a nice, fruity flavor and toned down the figs. I think that a little brandy or other liqueur would made a great substitution if you want to swap out the vermouth. Or, just omit the vermouth entirely. Sorry, Chef Mesnier.

Egg Custard Recipe

Here are the ingredients for my ice cream custard recipe. It is loosely adapted from the Dessert University. My recipe makes a small batch and includes only one (12 oz) can of evaporated milk — no cream, half and half or milk is used in this recipe.

The recipe uses only the egg yolks. Save the whites for another recipe. The cooked custard recipe is very rich with three egg yolks.

Making an egg custard is easy to do, but it does involve some patience and technique. The key here is to carefully cook the egg yolks, sugar and milk over low heat. And I emphasize low heat. You don’t want to curdle the eggs and wind up with scrambled eggs.

To make the ice cream custard, beat the eggs and sugar with a wire whip until they are pale yellow and smooth. (I did not use an electric mixer for this step, but rather beat the ingredients by hand.)

Mix in the can of evaporated milk. Transfer to a small, heavy saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the custard thickens and coats the back of a spoon. Don’t boil. This will take two or three minutes. Transfer to a container and refrigerate until chilled.

When you are ready to make the ice cream, mix together the fig sauce, vermouth, lemon juice and vanilla extract (not shown in this photo). Add this mixture to the ice cream custard.

Transfer the ice cream custard to your ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions. I have a little electric Cuisinart ice cream maker which uses an insulated freezer compartment to freeze the ice cream. It works great.

This ice cream is very soft. Transfer to another container and let it set in the freezer for several hours to “cure.” Or, if you prefer soft custard ice cream, eat immediately!

I love to whip up simple “no cook” ice creams. However, homemade egg custard ice creams are still my favorite. It takes a little more effort to make, but these ice creams are rich and smooth. Chef Roland Mesnier’s rich egg custard ice cream was delicious and I am sure it was well recieved at White House events.

Endless combinations of fruit and other ingredients can add flavor to summer ice creams — peach, cherry, persimmon, blackberry, pistachio, lemon and lime — I have made all of these over time. Plus, chocolate. Now, I have a new and definately unique variation. Fresh figs and vermouth give “spark” and a new meaning to summer ice cream.

“Fresh Fig & Vermouth Ice Cream” has been on my “to do” list of recipes to cook. Enjoy this tipsy ice cream recipe! And, you just may learn to like figs.